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Robotos Robots On Display


Roboto

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My 2nd Dalek arrived and he is the 18" interactive Bronze version. I will start to unbox him in the days to come and show photos of how they are boxed and strapped within for shipping and storage. This one arrived with his original outer ship box not many exist as such. The display box measures at 12"W x 20"H x 17.5L the weight is 11lbs. I can see why Character options added a top handle for carry in 2007.

 

 

 

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The inner hold box will need to be made stronger since these large Dalek weight so much the thin cardboard over 11 to 12 years fold in on its self. Shown here are the sides still factory sealed even the bottom has 3 levels of wire to hold down and the head like wise. Also not many out there that still have that top head protector.

 

 

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Took a few photos of that inner box as I start repairs late next week. That inner box has great looking photos all around inside and it also has that new undamaged bottom front plastic holder which most of the time I have seen damaged/torn.

 

 

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So many wires to hold him in place as it took over an hour to unwire this Dalek neatly. Most buyers just cut the wires to remove him and damage all. Bottom of box shows battery placement even though there is a manual with quite a few pages. All those wires on the bottom go thru into the bottom Dalek base as they are looped within the Dalek base this took some time. Character Options did a great job with the wires since all are coated with a soft plastic shield no scratch to the plastic.

 

 

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Dalek 18 inch Bronze (43).JPG

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Boxes are now done even though they are new its about the weight and years that take a toll on that inner display holder box. The inner box was redone using cardboard cut to the shapes and a rubber silicone glue. Then I used weight= bricks and wine to hold until the glue set. All corners were done the same way box now is very sturdy. I used a 12" Dalek box as a comparison. Our Siberian Husky watched as this project was completed and some of the wine also!

 

 

 

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Thank you I just received a few more Daleks and 2 need to be worked on they are the larger 18" versions I will post soon on how they can be taken apart and made to run again. This one arrived damaged due to no inner packing when shipped to me even the box was damaged that also will be repaired. The head unit the lights and gun are not working so photos will be taken on how to make such Dalek working and added to my collection. This one will take some time!! I did get my $$ back made an offer and now the fun will begin! If it cannot be repaired the spare parts will be used.  I have always wanted to take one apart should be fun.

 

 

 

 

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And so it begins with a new addition hopefully to add to my collection with the take apart of said 18" bronze interactive Dalek. Thanks to a video done by 6sek on you tube those hidden 6 screws can now be found to start the take apart. One very hot to the finger touch Hair Dryer and both side panels have been removed this took some time to make it happen without damage. The side panels became very soft and panels came off with a slight pull on the corners as they bent up and then reformed there shapes as they cooled the panel are a PCV plastic. There are another 2 small black panels in above that seemed to pop off easy enough 3 screws each side.

As you can see with the last 2 photos there are 4 panels to be heated at the rear to find those 6 screws this takes time to make it so.

 

 

 

 

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As I begin this nice project to be added to the collection its apart now and I have also taken apart the motor area for those large wheels that make him go. Each wheel has a large motor and wheel sensors needed for programmed run modes. Looks like the 4 D cell batteries run this area. I greased the gears and oile the motor bearing with Super Lube Silicone oil/grease. Even took apart that ball front wheel needed to see how it worked. This also has a few rollers within!

 

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Dalek Bronze Interactive 18 (31).JPG

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Time to take the eye motor out and repair. Once the back panel is off I unplugged carefully the 2 wire straps marked in red and the front half came off. That extra loose white wire is an inner antenna for the remote. Once upside down I removed the 4 screws and took the head off its base. The screw holes are marked in yellow and head will need to be turned for the other 2. There was enough cable to move head away. Remove the 3 screws on the circuit board then another 3 screws that hold the gear/motor unit to the head place on the side and remove remaining screws so the housing comes off. Remove housing slowly straight up. The motor was frozen and gears jammed I used 2 drops of Super Lube oiler to the motor shaft top and bottom and used a fine brush to apply Super Lube grease to the gears. These gears need the silicone grease just like from the factory and I moved the motor gear which unfroze it. I replaced motor head assembly back as it was reconnected cables installed batteries turned on the eye unit worked great and the gears ran quiet.

Coming up next getting the motor unit to work that turns the head right to left this will be fun!

 

 

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Now for the head rotate gear box but first remember to have the batteries out of the Dalek so you do not by accident turn on the off/on switch which may have him try to exterminate you. The 1rst step is to carefully unplug the red marked wire circuit from board then you will see a wire tie down that holds that wire plus another this will have to be cut with small wire cutters this will make the circuit board easy to lift to the left side. Once the 3 screws have been taken off the circuit board you now can remove the 5 screws that hold the top half of the gear box unit. Just like the eye motor all is the same grease the gears carefully and 1 drop of Super Lube silicone to each motor bearing then just turn the gear on the motor it will move freely. I use the Super grease on a fine small painters brush to coat the gears then replace the cover and reverse what you had done. I have done 2 of the interactives so far and you may have to carefully remove some of that glue that holds the motor in place as it is stuck to that top case just enough to free it leave the rest alone. Once done make sure you have that rear neck cover in place it is needed as you turn him on the head will rotate and stop within as it makes contact with the rear cover there are 2 inner stops inside if not on the head will continue to rotate and may damage the wire harness!! 

 

 

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