Manmos King Kit Instructions

[Brian..]

Here are the instructions for the Manmos King 3D printed robot project. 

 

This is my first kit, so if things go wrong I'll  replace any parts you break or mess up for just the cost of postage. So don't worry about ruining anything.  I've pre-assembled a couple of components to ensure that the parts are fit for purpose.  

 

Stage 1 - Painting

 

It's best to paint the body, legs, head and arms at an early stage. Spray with lots of light coats NOT one big coat! Leave to dry - a couple of days.  Car spray dries fast, enamel takes forever.  Details such as the knees, elbows and bands on the battery cover should also be painted before assembly because they're hard to get at once the riobot has been built. . 

 

Paint the fine details only when the robot has been fully assembled.

 

A NOTE ON GLUING. If you use very little glue you can easily correct errors by tapping out wires or prising bits apart. Only when you are happy with the build should you add more glue to firm up assemblies. 

 

 

 

Stage 2 - Feet 

 

If you have one of my other robots, just take a look at the feet. They're all the same basic design. 

 

Use high viscosity (thick) superglue to assemble the robot. 

 

Identify the front of each foot. There's a hole in the collar of each foot - this is the front.  (Click images for a better view)

 

 

 

 

Fix the front pawl (the little hook that stops the wheel turning backward) in the underside front of the foot with one of the long brass pins. Check the diagram  to see how the pawl is positioned. 

 

Apply a TINY drop of glue to the end of the pin to hold it in place Keep the glue well away from the pawl. When dry, the pawl MUST be able to swing freely. If there is any resistance or if it doesn't swing freely the robot won't walk properly. 

 

Repeat for the back pawl.  Leave to dry. 

 

Put the tyres on the wheels.

 

 

Attach the wheels to the foot using the short rods. DON'T GLUE YET!!! There is a right and a wrong way round. Look carefully at the diagram, but if you get it wrong the robot will walk backwards! Make sure that the wheel spins very freely. Now check that the foot moves forward, and that it resists moving backward. If necessary turn the wheel round. Once again, everything must move very freely. 

 

 

 

Repeat for the other foot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Brian..]

Stage 3 - Legs

 

Identify the leg strut and you'll see one hole is slightly smaller than the other. This is the end that attaches to the foot. Attach the strut to the foot using the short rod.  make sure that the strut can move freely - work it about a bit until it swings easily. 

 

 

 

Take one leg and slide the foot assembly inside.

 

 

Slide a pin through the bottom front of the leg, through the hole in the foot, and out the other side. Make sure the foot moves easily. This is essential to allow the robot to walk smoothly. 

 

Apply a TINY TINY TINY dab of glue to one end the end of the pin to hold it in place. 

 

Repeat for the other leg.

 

Just to repeat, make sure everything hinges super freely. If it doesn't, correct it now. 

 

 

 

 

[Brian..]

Stage 4  - Attach the Legs

 

 

OOPS: I may have failed to provide the two little nails for this next step! I have a couple sitting here! 

You need two nails about 2 ins long (50mm). Use pliers to snip the top off each nail and put a little bend into the top 10mm (3/8 in) then drop the nails into the holes in the top of each leg. The nails need needs to poke out the top by no more than 10mm (3/8 in). Notice how the nail bends inward towards the pivot post. 

 

Glue in place.  You can use shorter nails as long as 10mm of each pokes out of the top. The bend prevents the nails from catching on the side of the robot and you can adjust it later to suit. TIP: before the glue sets, turn the nail so that it leans inward and slightly towards the back of the leg. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slide the right leg up through the bottom of the body. Place a long rod through the forward hole in the body, through the leg and into the middle of the body. Wait there a second!

 

 

 

Slide the left leg into position, then complete sliding the rod through the left leg and out the side. NO GLUE YET!!!

 

Check that the legs are swinging freely.

 

Now ......   fiddly bit coming up. My record if 5 seconds. 

 

Slide the other long rod through the rear hole in the body, through the hole in the strut, through the engine block, through the other strut and out the other side of the body. TIP: If this proves too difficult, remove the leg and slighty widen the hole in the strut. 

 

 

Check that all looks OK then apply a TINY drop of glue to one side of each of the long rod to tack them in place. 

 

 

LEAVE TO DRY.

 

 

[Brian..]

Stage 5 - ARMS

 

The clutch mechanism allows the arms to be adjusted easily. Without this it would be difficult to position the arms and there would be a danger of breakage if the robot toppled over. 

 

Glue the hollow tube into the small round clutch piece. Wait until thoroughly dry. Be generous with the glue, but keep it to the center of the clutch and away from the outer edge. Leave to dry thoroughly. 

 

 

Put the spring over the tube then push through the outer clutch piece.

 

IMPORTANT: DON'T GET ANY GLUE ON THE INNER PART. OF THE CLUTCH. THE GLUE GOES ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE OUTER PART. 

 

 

FIDDLY BIT ALERT. Put glue on the OUTSIDE edge of the clutch, then press this assembly into the hole in the arm. Line it up nice ans square then press it in evenly.  Keep glue well away from the ends! Hold until dry. You want the assembly to go as far as possible into the arm. 

 

 

 

The arms should now be able to turn while the metal tube stays still. Hold the tube gently with pliers and check that the arm rotates. If you get glue in the wrong place the arm may seize up, so check now that it's moving smoothly. A little gentle persuasion can solve slight glue problems. This clutch allows the arm's position to be adjusted easily. 

 

 

 

[Brian..]

Stage 6 - BATTERY HOLDER AND  MOTOR

 

TIP: keep the wiring tidy. Press it up against the side of the body and away from moving parts. A little glue can hold it in position. 

 

Screw the battery holder into place using the two screws. 

 

The switch has been pre-wired in place. Two black wires emerge from the switch. Join one of these wires (either, it doesn't matter)  to the black wire on the battery holder. You can trim these to keep the run short - avoid saggy wiring.

 

IMPORTANT FOR NEXT STEP  - place the rubber belt over the left hand pulley on the motor. No need to place it precisely, just hook it over the motor cam. This it the robot's left.  And DON'T get the electrical wires tangled in the belt. Nothing should pass through the belt. 

 

Slide the motor and belt into place in the body. REMEMBER: BELT ON THE LEFT, WIRES ON THE RIGHT.  It is a firm fit and the motor cams must slide into the slots on the top of the legs. Take care to line things up. The motor can be pulled out but it takes a bit of effort.  Remember, don't get the wires tangled with that rubber belt. I did, and had to unsolder everything.

 

Now you can finish the motor wiring - solder the second black wire from the switch to one of the motor connectors and the red wire to the other. it doesn't matter which way round you connect them.  Now position the wires to keep them from touching any of the moving parts. 

 

Put some batteries in and check that the legs move. Watch carefully as you switch it on and be ready to switch off if anything rubs or binds. Hopefully all will work fine and the robot will scoot across the table. Check that the wheel ratchets are working properly. Go back to the wheel stage if necessary. You didn't glue them, did you,   so you can easily turn them round. 

 

When you're happy apply a TINY dab of glue to the ends of the wheel rods. 

[Brian..]

Stage 7 - Antenna Pulley (Parts removed for clarity)

 

This is a test run to check the pulley. Place the body pulley assembly on top of the robot as shown. Check that the bottom of the rubber belt sits in the groove on the motor cam, catch the top of  rubber belt and pass it through the gap and over the pulley at the top. A thin screwdriver helps to hold the belt. Sit the body pulley assembly neatly in place and switch on. The antenna rod should turn. If not, check that the belt is in the right place and try again.

 

 

 

 

Once you're happy, remove the top assembly.  

 

 

[Brian..]

Stage 8 - Fitting the Arms (In this diagram the motor has been removed so you can see things better)

 

Position an arm holder inside the robot and make sure it sits snug to the side and goes around the little nail at the top of the leg. The slight bend in that nail keeps it from binding. Remember, the nail leans in and slightly backward. The backward lean should solve any binding issues you may encounter. 

 

 

 

Place a spacer on to the arm rod then pass the rod through the body and into the hole in the arm holders.Press the arm up tight to the body and lightly tighten the screw to hold the arm in place. Adjust so the arm is snugly in position. Don't worry if the screw doesn't tighten fully - you can add a dab of glue later to firm it up - but not yet because you may want to adjust it. 

 

 

Repeat for the other arm

 

Switch on and check that the arms swing. Keep your fingers out of the way. Be ready to switch off if there's any rubbing or obstruction. The motors are strong and can break components if they jam. If the robot locks up, remove the arms, adjust those nails slightly (inward and backward) , and try again. 

 

Tighten the screws a bit more once you're happy. 

 

 

[Brian..]

Stage 9 - Lighted Head.

 

I provided a little wire with a socket on the first version, but I found that its easier just to solder the red wire on the LED to the red wire on the motor. (Snip off that little white socket.)  Then black to black.  If it's too short you can use a little bit of electrical wire.  Switch on and check it lights. 

 

 

The socket tended to obstruct the pulley so it's better avoided. 

 

Once you're happy you can assemble the antenna pulley again. Move any of the wires to the right hand side so they're out of the way and don't get tangled on the belt. 

 

 

[Brian..]

Stage 10 - Final Touches

 

If you are using the "regular" head, glue the two ears to the side of the head. The other head has its ears fitted. 

 

Slide the head on to the top of the body, passing the antenna rod through the hole in the head. LIGHTLY screw the head on to the body. You just need to let the head sit lightly on top and this prevents jamming the pulley.  TIP: check if wires from the LED are in the way. Move them to the side if necessary. 

 

Screw the battery cover in place. TIP - put the bottom screw in place, tighten it then leave it there. The battery cover can swing out of the way to let you insert batteries. Swing back in place and LIGHTLY put the top screw in position using the holes provided. 

 

Gently press the antenna on to the wire. Hold the rod as you put the antenna on, to prevent pressure on the delicate gear assembly below.

 

Switch on and test. You may need to check the belt alignment.  There's a bit of fiddling involved to get things running smoothly. Basically don't screw the head on too tight. 

 

Once you're happy you can add a little more glue to the ends of the various rods and do the detailed painting. 

 

 

TROUBLESHOOTING

 

Manmos should walk fine but the step that causes most trouble is getting the arms moving. The position of the nail at the top of the leg is the main offender and  may need slight adjustment. to prevent binding. Basically it should lean inward and slightly backward. You can gently adjust it with pliers. 

 

If the arms are too loose you can add a tiny drop of glue to the cam. 

 

Don't press the antenna down too much. It should just gently sit on the rod. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Brian..]

Please ask questions, rant, puzzle and solve issues here. Manmos does work. Honest.  

 

 

It's a fiddly kit to place in a box. I keep checking parts over and over, like I've got OCD. . It's so much quicker just to build them, so this will be the first and last kit. Enjoy!

 

 

[Ranger]

Glad mine was already built!  

 

[Brian..]

I'll be sending the built ones out from today. 

[Ranger]

I still have the unmade kit though! It is interesting to see all the parts that go into making the robot.

[Martian Gil]

Looking forward to this!    It's going right to the front of the line.  

[ROBODUDE]

Painting mine now!!!---Just a observation--Testors Enamel doesn't seem to like this plastic--I would prime the robot first if you are planning on using it-I painted one of mine with Testors and it just wanted to bead up on the plastic-not adhere to it. I stripped it off and am gonna redo it with a primer underneath. To be continued!!!